Artillery Sidewinder X2 3D Printer, SW-X2 Newest Model 95% Pre-Assembled Ultra-Quiet Rapid Heating Dual Z System Filament Runout Detection Resume Printing 300x300x400mm

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The flow rate determines how much filament is extruded per time unit. It is expressed as a percentage and is usually 100%. If you increase this value, more filament will be extruded, if you decrease it, less filament will be extruded. The injection molded plastic top is ok. Some would say that it’s a downgrade, but if it saves cost without impacting the printer, then I have no problem with it.

For this box ( link to model), good print bed adhesion is important because the individual moving parts of the front have quite delicate first layers and no brims or rafts can be used. On the Sidewinder X1, you would have to turn the eccentric nut to ensure it has the proper tension against the aluminum extrusion. But for the Sidewinder X2, Artillery took some inspiration from the TwoTrees Bluer Plus and the carriages now use a spring to push the V-slot wheel against the extrusion. Improved ribbon cable setupUnfortunately, the problem with the rotary screws is that in the four places where they touch the print bed, the AC heating is not applied to the print bed. This results in cold spots on the print bed above the four rotary screws where the print bed adhesion is worse than on the rest of the print bed. Install Klipper. This is personal. I just like the tuning freedom of Klipper and I find Marlin the less user-friendly platform for testing and upgrading any printer. The best variant would be the Copperhead Heat Break from Slice Engineering because it’s well built and won’t cause issues like the really cheap variants. Unfortunately, they don’t have compatible variants right now so you can try the alternatives provided by Trianglelab (smooth) or Mellow (DCrazy).

I also recommend using a small piece of tape to cover the 5V pin coming from your Raspberry Pi. This will fix the always on display from the printer. The two Z-axes are connected to each other at the upper end with a horizontal plastic strut. In many 3D printers, this part is also made of aluminum. However, since the plastic is very stable and fulfills its function of stabilizing the two Z-axes 100% in my eyes, this is not a disadvantage compared to a 100% aluminum frame. The only part of the Sidewinder X2 that is not perfect for PLA is its glass print bed. For PLA, other print bed surfaces like PEI would be better. But if you reduce the print speed of the first layer to 5 to 10 mm/s, the adhesion will be good enough. Otherwise, you can always use adhesives like Magigoo.It is also important that the extrusion is set correctly, otherwise the joints would jam. The print bed adhesion of the textured glass print bed was sufficient to print this object flawlessly. Also, I did not need Magigoo to further increase the print bed adhesion.

I did not scale the model and printed it in its original size. However, if I had printed it larger and placed the base on the areas of the print bed where the four screws are located, there would probably have been problems with the print bed adhesion, as the temperature there is lower than on the rest of the print bed.

With its integrated cable design, the visual look is refined and maintenance is significantly simplified.