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A standard 1.25" eyepiece usually has got the field stop more or less at the connection between the 1.25" nosepiece and the wider housing.
It looks like your taking a n f/10 to f/3, so a total of x0.3 reduction without too much noticable coma/vignettingThe FlipMirror II Star Diagonal allows a variety of permanent adaptations to your telescope 1 .Use the rotary knob 2to switch between the rear port 3and the top port 4;you can use an optional toothed belt to operate it with a motor (not included). An autoguider or a calibration lamp can be connected to the bottom port 5. In the case of a CCD camera, the flip mirror system works to let the viewer see exactly what the camera will see. [2] In this setup, the flip mirror is used as an accessory that helps to aim and focus. The device is inserted into the telescope drawtube just before the CCD camera. Operated through a small lever, the mirror can direct the light at right angles into a viewing piece when actuated "up" or free the light from the telescope to pass into the CCD camera when it is flipped "down". [3] The cover plate is 30 mm wide and 31 mm long. Additional folded edges, 3mm 45 degrees at the front and 4mm 90 degrees at the rear, increase rigidity, help positioning and prevent reflections on the leading edge. In the up position the mirror is quite low in the light path. I expect extra vignetting in the case of a full frame sensor. Der Flipp Mirror ist ab Werk bereits sehr gut justiert, sodass im Normalfall keine Nachjustierung nötig ist. Hier liegen zwischen dem Baader Flip Mirror und anderen Produkten (auch einfachen Zenitspiegel) Welten und ich habe schon einige gekauft und wieder verkauft!
The T-2 flange focal distance is standardized – even a mirrorless camera needs 55mm with a standard T-ring. hex keys (2.5 / 2.0 / 1.5 / 1.3 mm). The 2.0 mm wrench has a ball head to reach screws even when accessories are mounted by holding the wrench at an angle. The problem is that the focus point of a cross hair eyepiece is often different to that of a standard 1.25" eyepiece. Alternatively, we would gain a little more leeway and make do with an extension sleeve if we put a golden 1mm T-2 spacer instead of the 7.5mm sleeve in front of the camera - but we want to show as many options as possible here.
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We'd recommend to use these two clamps and to determine the focus position of the eyepiece. You shouldn't need to insert it completely into upper port, as that clamp is shorter. If desired, you can add T-2-extensions later to get to the right distance. Or you focus your telescope now with the cameras to find out how much the focus differs between eyepiece and cameras, then you can determine the required T-2-extensions in advance. By any chance, do you know the distance between the meade 6.3, x0.5 reducer, ln300 sensor? If it's too much trouble, don't worry about it, but I figured I would ask. I plan on eventually upgrading my AVS DSO ccd to a lodestar x2c like you as well. Most anodized parts are highly reflective in the near IR. So for IR applications some painting needs to be done.
and thus also has a flange focal distance of 55mm. The sensor thus has the same distance as a classic DSLR, and the adaptation is identical because the T-2 flange focal distance is maintained. is 59mm long, the camera 55mm – the total length was too short to get into focus at this special telescope in all configurations. Therefore a Baader T-2 / 40 mm Extension Tube (T-2 part #25B) (#1508153 , € 27,-) Now, during the global pandemic, when everyone wears a face mask, the online mirror can help you a lot. In situations where you do not have a real mirror, the online mirror helps you to properly arrange the protective mask, carefully covering your mouth and nose. Use our online mirror, arrange your face mask, to be comfortable, but at the same time to be fixed correctly. Wear a protective mask correctly and be healthy! The Flip Mirror itself has got T-2-threads on both ends. For use with Barlow and ADC, it is probably the best if you use T-2-eyepiece clamps on both ports. There are several clamps available: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/eyepiece-clamps.html?filter_threads_lenssided=536 As the position of the ADC should be orientated on the horizon, it is better to use a clamp than to screw it directly onto the FlipMirror without an option to rotate it.You will also see some more values such as Astigmatism and Coma. Again, these are measured by the interferometer when we take measurements of the optical surface after adjustment. These are values which ideally would be at 0 but as our test optics are all curved lenses, there will always be astigmatism and coma present. The lower the number, the less of these aberations you will effectively see but with most refractors, you can buy field flatteners which will compensate for the coma anyway. The astigmatisms value is explaining the error between the symmetrical curvature of the lens. Basically, no lens will be perfectly symmetrical, the lower the astigmatism, the more symmetrical the lens surface is. In the Orion manual, these are referred to simply for adjusting the arm tension, but it’s more than that. Out of each set of three, the two larger, outer, screws hold up a plate inside the body that the mirror axle pivots on. The center, smaller screw pushes down on the axle. Tension is indeed applied to the axle between the 3 screws, but by loosening the two large screws on one side and tightening the small one between them, you are effectively moving that side of the mirror down slightly. This changes the left/right slant of the mirror and should allow left/right alignment between the eyepiece and camera views.
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