Joined in 2023 
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New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging . When doing slots I go 1/8" at a pass and I have a 3 HP motor digitally controlled speed on my table. Your first task will almost certainly be getting one side out of wind, so do you have a flat enough and big enough surface to work on? The main thing you'll need to be careful about, beyond keeping your fingers away from the bit, is to always be aware of where the wood that you're removing is in relation to the bit.
The 1" diameter bit has a cutting depth of 19/32" and an 8mm diameter shank that is 28mm long; the 1 1/2" diameter bit cuts up to 11/16" deep and is available with an 8mm diameter shank (34mm long) or a 1/2" diameter shank (1 11/32" long).I believe the replaceable cutters are usually made of a harder carbide as they don't need to be brazed onto the router bit. I can tell you from experience these are as robust and heavy duty as they come and the motor is 3HP which is great for heavy operations like surfacing or panel raising in the router table. While these difficulties can undoubtedly be resolved it's a lot of futzing about when the stated goal is to make the job easier. You can of course chuck this style of bit into a router mounted in a table and I can envisage some potential uses for it 1, but to then use it for the intended purpose — flattening an end-grain cutting board — would be a bad idea for multiple reasons.
Use range suitable for woods, particle board, MDF, plywood compact panel, acrylic; Avoid cutting ferrous metal and non wood materials, iron, etc. It's unlikely you can get it perfect (although using clamping cauls can definitely help with this goal) but if you exercise particular care you may end up with a result flat enough that you only need to sand to flatten, rather than having to mill off 1mm or more. Each bit includes a friction-fit holder made of an advanced polymer, which can be mounted horizontally or upright. I’m getting ready to build a router sled to flatten slabs and other boards, I don't have a jointer big enough.
You say 1/8" So that is an 1/8" from the very highest point, so much of the time you are cutting air? exposing a large and very dangerous bit sticking up unguarded from the table, so personal safety strike two! Would you get less tearout for example, if you work outside ->in, moving in a counterclockwise direction?
Might get the Lee Valley kit or build a jig from scratch similar to the one suggested by Infinity Tools. The answer to your question is no, this is not a good idea :-) Flattening a board is safe, repeatable and not dangerous if done with a router sled and it isn't just normally done that way, it's almost universally done that way. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. You would also need to make sure that the work piece and its "rails" are fully supported by the router table for the entire size of the piece. HIGH QUALITY CNC SURFACING ROUTER BIT: The sharp carbide tipped bit, solid hardened steel bodies with anti-kickback design.The above really overshadow anything else, but additional issues relate to the parallel bars you're envisaging using, including how they'll be attached to the board, how you'd ensure they are parallel to each other and then parallel the opposite face of the board. If the item comes direct from a manufacturer, it may be delivered in non-retail packaging, such as a plain or unprinted box or plastic bag. And then you have to put the workpiece back down carefully and push it back into position (still working blind remember) until the bit unexpectedly re-engages with the work. The bits have tungsten carbide tips that retain their hardness at high temperatures, so the bits keep their precision-ground edges for a clean cut.
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