Fibre / Fibreglass Abrasive Cleaning Pencil / Pen & 5 Refills

Product Information

Of course you all know what is going to happen tonight; just after rubbing down a messy bit of soldering an odd itching feeling will appear in my fingertips... The pencils are quite good , being a " Model Engineer " of many years standing . ( Working model steam engines ) I use quite a lot of these pencils from time to time. The main trouble that I find is that they are not quite hard enough , and each re fill doesn't last very long at all. perhaps ? there could be some improvement on that " score " ??? This is ideal for a variety of uses. It can remove printing from the side of locos, coaches and wagons, clean points for improved electrical conductivity and loco wheels, commutators, and “untarnishes” metals, like coupling rods of steam locos and diesel shunters.

Abrasive Pencil 4mm | Halfords UK

I'm relatively new to etch kit building and have been using phosphoric flux from available from London Road Models and Hobby Holidays (amongst others). Initially I applied it with a brush, but have switched to using a syringe (the needle on it filed off flat to avoid the risk of accidentally injecting myself with flux!). Unlikely due to the length. 18 feet planks are hard to come by and therefore expensive. Not sure if they were used when new. Most probably created by creating a scarfe joint. The best traditional fluid flux is Bakers, which is acid, balanced with a a buffer, and zinc in solution. It cleans aggressively the surface once hot, and promotes the spread of the solder. It works well on steel parts, but must be washed of at once, as it starts oxides on the surfaces if left. Here you go Steve. I apply Humbrol powders then once happy, I seal them with a LIGHT pass of Humbrol Matt acrylic varnish. Too much and it be too wet. This will lose the variations in colour.

I have the usual 5mm(?) propelling type fibreglass pencils and they can be a pain. I just make sure that I'm not using them directly over my lap! The flux not to use on models is a flux that is greasy, they leave deposits of burnt fat and varnish over the joint, all right for plumbing, but it upsets the latter painting on a model. Thanks for the comment Doilum, I'm not sure about the livery of the wagon, it's quite an old Bachmann product and could be completely fictitious, there might be someone on here who knows though. Over the years, I've used this stuff for a number of purposes - and have generally found the medium to be the most useful of the lot - followed by fine (which I've sometimes used for cleaning circuit boards).

Gaugemaster GM633 Glass fibre pencil - Hattons Model Railways Gaugemaster GM633 Glass fibre pencil - Hattons Model Railways

I used to use a fibre glass tip cleaning tool with a cloth wrapping, this is more convenient and accessible to use and the results are as good, great product. This Modelcraft Glass Fibre Pencil will make your model work shine! The pencil can clean metals, plastics and woods ready to be worked on or be used to brighten your projects. Garryflex is colour coded, according to grade. There is a list printed on the side of the card wrapper - which may, or may not, be readable in the photo earlier in this thread:Most water based flux is phosphoric acid based, harmless, and stops rust as well. The Eco alternatives are citric acid and other mild acid solutions. These may allow rusting to occur after drying off. I've normally used Bakers flux and more recently Carrs yellow, but bought some Gauge 0 'safety flux' last year which, applied with a brush, doesn't seem to wet the parts I want to tin . It stays in little blobs despite me burnishing the brass with a fine abrasive or fibreglass pen. I also have a larger fibreglass brush - about 10mm diameter that is absolutely OK and doesn't moult like the smaller item. I use Carr's yellow as it doesn't rust one's tools and doesn't leave green deposits on brass. It may have disadvantages that I'm not aware of, but I've used it for 5 years and it gets things built.... But all fluxes must be washed away at once anyway, leave and it asks for trouble later on. the exception is the rosin flux used in the cored solder, it is safe to leave as it turns inert at the temperature the iron reaches. Electronic joints use this type, and leave the residues in place.